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Chińczyk w Burgundii (2012-08-30)


Przez francuskie media przetoczyła się ostatnio burza związana z zakupem burgundzkiej winnicy przez biznesmena z Chin. Otóż właściciel jednego z kasyn w Makau wyłożył 8 milionów euro na zakup podupadającego XII wiecznego zamku – Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, wraz z otaczająca go dwuhektarową winnicą. Natychmiast został oskarżony o wszelkie możliwe bezeceństwa. Jean-Michel Guillon, prezes związku producentów wina w Gevrey-Chambertin zarzucił mu profanowanie francuskiego dziedzictwa,  zaś wtórujący mu wiceprzewodniczący prawicowego Frontu Narodowego domagał się od rządu aby pomógł zachować dla Francji jej narodowy skarb. Dlaczego zakup mikroskopijnej winnicy, wraz z zamkiem, którym wcześniej nikt się nie interesował wzbudził takie wzburzenie? Przyczyn jest kilka. Po pierwsze Burgundia to nie Bordeaux. Nad Żyrondą ponad dwadzieścia posiadłości należy już do przybyszów z Azji i nikogo to specjalnie nie porusza, jednak Akwitania, będąca we władaniu Anglików przez kilkaset lat jest znacznie bardziej kosmopolityczna od starej Burgundii. Od lat pierwsze skrzypce w Bordeaux odgrywają rodziny szkockiego i irlandzkiego pochodzenia, które tworzyły winiarską potęgę regionu. Burgundia to serce Francji i duma jej winiarstwa, to najdroższe i najmniej zrozumiałe dla laika wina na świecie, szczyt francuskiego esprit. Przybysz z Chin nie był tu specjalnie mile widziany, zwłaszcza, że kupując winnicę, przebił niemal dwukrotnie ofertę miejscowych winiarzy. Osiem milionów za dwuhektarową posiadłość to nowy rekord, a ma to znaczenie bardzo praktyczne. Otóż podatek spadkowy od burgundzkich winnic wyliczany jest na podstawie średniej ceny hektara, a tak transakcja znacznie tę średnią cenę podnosi. Jak nie wiadomo o co chodzi to chodzi o pieniądze. I nie miało przy tym znaczenia, że nabywca z Chin jest jednym z najbardziej znanych kolekcjonerów win francuskich w Azji, że do prowadzenia winnicy zatrudnił Erica Rousseau z kultowej posiadłości Domaine Armand Rousseau, wreszcie, że najprawdopodobniej uratuje on zamek przed popadnięciem w ruinę. W każdym razie, we francuskich mediach mało komu »

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« więcejautor: Sławomir Chrzczonowicz
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Za tak zwane wino korkowe odpowiedzialny jest pewien gatunek grzyba rozwijającego się niekiedy w korze dębu korkowego. W zetknięciu grzyba z chlorem, znajdującym się w środkach czystości stosowanych do mycia i odkażania, powstaje związek chemiczny zwany trójchloroanizolem. To właśnie TCA nadaje winu nieprzyjemny, zatęchły, "korkowy" zapach i drażniący gorzki smak.

Podając wino często stajemy przed problemem, iż jest ono za chłodne lub za ciepłe. W pierwszym przypadku wystarczy postawić butelkę na pewien czas przed podaniem w pokoju. Można również ... więcej»


Aby móc w pełni docenić zalety wina, należy podawać je w takiej temperaturze aby zawarte w nim związki aromatyczne mogły uwalniać się powoli, w miarę ogrzewania się wina w kieliszku. ... więcej»


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